How do you clean the carburetor on an Arctic Cat ATV

How do you clean the carburetor on an Arctic CAT ATV? (Step By Step Guide)

Last updated on July 30th, 2025

Before you are learning How do you clean the carburetor on an Arctic CAT ATV , you need to have a tool kit by your side or a rebuild/repair kit to ensure that you know what you are doing. Now, cleaning your carburetor can be a tough call on any day and depending on the condition of your vehicle, be either a very easy task done in a couple of hours OR a very time-consuming task, taking a lot more time than you anticipated.

Either way, we are going to list out a few things that you could possibly call a protocol of sorts, to help you do this faster and more efficiently.

Why Cleaning the Carburetor Is Important

Let’s keep it real — your Arctic Cat ATV won’t run right if the carburetor is dirty. The carb is where fuel and air mix before they enter the engine. If it’s clogged, your ATV will cough, sputter, or just refuse to start.

Common signs of a dirty carburetor:

  • Your ATV starts but dies right away.
  • It runs rough or stalls at idle.
  • You lose power when you hit the throttle.
  • You smell fuel or see black smoke from the exhaust.

Sound familiar? Yep, your carburetor is likely full of old fuel gunk or tiny dirt particles.

Here’s the deal — ATVs like Arctic Cat 500s and 700s often sit for long periods, especially during winter. When gas sits in the carb too long, it turns into sticky varnish. That stuff clogs up jets, passages, and valves. Even the best fuel can break down in a few weeks if untreated.

Quick tip: Always use a fuel stabilizer if you’re storing your ATV for more than 30 days. It’ll save you a lot of hassle.

Cleaning the carb isn’t just about performance — it’s about prevention. If you ignore it too long, you might end up with a completely stuck carb that needs replacing. And let’s be honest, those aren’t cheap.

Bottom line? If your Arctic Cat is running weird, cleaning the carburetor is a smart first step. It’s one of the most common and effective ATV fixes you can do yourself — no mechanic needed.

Essential things to keep handy during your carburetor cleaning:

  • An exploded diagram for re-assembly
  • Carburetor cleaner with straw and with wires
  • Metal container or a gallon of carb cleaner
  • Compressed Air
  • Pipe cleaners (If you can find your hands on them)

The first step when you are cleaning out your carburetor is to dismantle and de-assemble everything with screws. If you are not used to cleaning your carburetor often, then don’t be too surprised if it is filled with rust. The procedure below is going to illustrate what you can do when you have a really bad carb and a step-by-step guide of how you can deal with it.

We have had carburetors that have rusted fuel accelerators, gauges, diaphragms, gaskets, and needle rings that have been filled with rust. The good part is that all of this can be fixed and you can have your carburetor almost back in a shiny, new condition

WHFZN 0470-449 Carburetor With Fuel Valve for Arctic Cat 400 Carb Arctic Cat 500 Carb 2X4 4X4 2000-2003
  • FITMENT – For Arctic Cat ATV 400 2000-2003
  • REPLACE PART NUMBER -0470-449
  • EASY INSTALLATION – Easy to install and fire up immediately, NO surge and sputter.Please do make sure fuel is pure enough before installation.
  • HIGH QUALITY – Great stability and durability.
  • PACKAGE INCLUDES – as the picture show,24 hours after-sales service

Steps to follow for your Arctic Cat ATV 500 Carb problem:

  1. First things first take all the jets out. The main starter, the pilot, and the full seat. Ensure that you remove the float very carefully. This is because the float is attached to a rubber tip and if that breaks, you have another problem to worry about.
  2. The next step is to pull the needle valve and the diaphragm. The needle comes with a slide that acts as a meter for the fuel. It has a slide and is tapered towards the end.
  3. Once again, you must be careful while you are pulling out the diaphragm because sometimes, one can have a tendency to just rip it off when it doesn’t come off properly. Instead of doing that, ensure that the diaphragm detaches itself properly. Keep going around the circle carefully, till it comes off loose.
  4. Invest in a good carburetor cleaner and maybe carry a small piece of wire with you to get into those tiny holes that you will find around the sidewall of the carburetor.
  5. Spray clean all the parts that you have dismantled with compressed air to ensure that they are clean and ready to re-assemble easily.
  6. Let it stay in the cleaner for a few fours. Better still if you can keep it overnight. Remove any rubber material from the overnight mix. It is only metal which can stay in the cleaner.
  7. Once you have soaked it overnight, it is now time for you to take out the float bowl and check if the needle with the rubber tip is smooth and shiny. If there is the slightest trace of a green-like substance, then ensure that you clean it out again. This, if not done, has the potential to cause fuel leakages or other problems.
  8. Clean all the jet holes and take a piece of sandpaper to cover the wire with. Push the wire firmly around the jet holes for you to see if there any other cleaning required. If you see any place for cleaning, use the spray cleaner to clean out that area.
  9. This calls for another round of compressed air cleaning. Ensure that no loose rings are lying around and once you have done that; you can start your work on the re-assembly.

Re-assembling the carburetor

Re-assembling the carburetor is a bigger concern than pulling it apart. It is fairly easy to pull it apart, however, the challenge arises when we have forgotten to take note of which small part goes where. The tendency can be to pull apart the pilot screw out without counting the number of turns. There are a small ring and a small washer along with a spring and it is usually kept outside the carburetor.

It is better to keep a full-blown diagram in front of you as you are preparing to re-assemble. You can find the settings for your re-installation online as well. You are going to see a lot of hoses and wires that are connected to your carburetor. The smart thing to do is to take pictures of it while you are dismantling it. The important thing to understand is that it is probably going to take you at least a few tries before you get it right.

Tips to Prevent Future Carburetor Problems

Cleaning your Arctic Cat ATV carburetor once is great — but keeping it clean? Even better.

Here are a few easy habits that’ll help you avoid future carb issues:

1. Use Clean, Fresh Fuel

Old gas is the #1 carb killer. Fuel breaks down fast — sometimes in just a few weeks. That stale gas turns gummy and clogs up your jets.

Tip: If your ATV’s been sitting for a month or more, drain the tank and refill with fresh gas before riding.

2. Add a Fuel Stabilizer Before Storage

If you’re parking your ATV for the season, add a good fuel stabilizer (like STA-BIL) to the tank. It keeps fuel fresh and helps prevent that nasty varnish buildup inside the carburetor.

Works great for winter storage or when your riding plans are on hold.

3. Run the ATV Regularly

ATVs are meant to move. Letting them sit for too long is asking for trouble — especially with the carb.

Even starting the engine and letting it idle for 10–15 minutes every couple of weeks helps. Keeps fuel flowing and parts moving.

4. Clean or Replace the Air Filter

A clogged air filter means your carb pulls in dirt — and that can gum up the works fast. Check your air filter often, especially if you ride dusty trails.

If you see a lot of dirt, swap it out. They’re cheap and easy to replace.

5. Drain the Carb Float Bowl if Parking Long-Term

This one’s for the overachievers. If you know your Arctic Cat ATV is going to sit for months, drain the carburetor’s float bowl. It keeps fuel from sitting inside and drying into sludge.

You’ll usually find a small screw at the bottom of the carb — open it and let the gas drain into a container.

Keep a regular maintenance checklist. Carb cleaning isn’t something you’ll do weekly, but once or twice a year can save you time, money, and headaches.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Cleaning a carburetor on your Arctic Cat ATV isn’t rocket science — but there are a few mistakes that can turn a simple job into a real headache. Let’s go over what not to do.

1. Using Too Much Force on Small Parts

Carburetors have delicate parts — like jets, float pins, and tiny screws. Forcing anything can strip threads or break components.

Tip: If a jet won’t come loose easily, soak it in carb cleaner for a few minutes. Don’t jam it with a screwdriver.

2. Skipping the Air Filter Check

Here’s one people forget — cleaning the carb but leaving a dirty air filter in place. That just sends more dirt into your freshly cleaned system.

Always inspect (and clean or replace) the air filter when working on your ATV’s carburetor. A clean carb and a dirty filter don’t mix.

3. Using Wire or Needles to Clear Jets

It’s tempting to poke something into a clogged jet — but resist the urge. Even soft wire can damage the tiny jet openings and mess up your fuel-to-air ratio.

Stick with carburetor cleaner and compressed air. If that doesn’t work, consider replacing the jet.

4. Over-Tightening Screws and Clamps

After putting everything back together, it’s easy to crank down too hard on the float bowl screws or hose clamps.

Don’t do it. Overtightening can strip threads or crack the carb body — and those parts aren’t cheap to replace.

5. Forgetting to Reconnect Hoses or Cables

It happens more than you think. You clean everything, reassemble the carb, fire up the ATV — and it runs terrible. Turns out, a vacuum line or throttle cable didn’t get reattached.

Snap a few photos before disassembly. They’ll help when you’re putting everything back where it belongs.

6. Not Checking for Fuel Leaks After Reinstall

Once your carburetor is back on your Arctic Cat ATV, always check for leaks. Start the engine and inspect fuel lines, connections, and the float bowl area.

A leaking fuel line is more than a mess — it’s a fire risk.

Avoiding these mistakes can make your carb cleaning smooth, safe, and successful. Take your time, double-check your work, and your ATV will thank you on the next ride.

When to Replace Instead of Clean

Cleaning the carburetor on your Arctic Cat ATV usually does the trick. But sometimes, no amount of scrubbing or spraying will bring it back to life.

Here’s how to know when it’s time to stop cleaning — and start thinking about a replacement.

1. Heavy Corrosion or Rust

If you open up your carb and see thick rust or white powdery corrosion, that’s a bad sign. This usually happens when water gets into the fuel and sits for a long time.

Tip: Surface rust can sometimes be cleaned, but deep corrosion in the float bowl or jet passages? It’s better (and safer) to replace the whole unit.

2. Cracked or Warped Carb Body

Take a close look at the carburetor housing. If it’s cracked, warped, or stripped, it won’t seal properly — and that means air or fuel leaks.

Even if the internals are clean, a damaged body will keep your Arctic Cat ATV from running right.

3. Stripped Screws or Stuck Parts

Some older carburetors have screws that are completely stripped or jets that just won’t budge. If you’ve tried everything — heat, penetrating oil, gentle persuasion — and parts still won’t move, you’re likely wasting time.

Forcing it could break something else. Sometimes, it’s cheaper to replace the carb than to fight with it for hours.

4. You’ve Cleaned It — and It Still Runs Like Trash

Let’s say you followed all the steps. You used carb cleaner, air, reassembled everything correctly — and your ATV still won’t idle or accelerate properly.

Double-check other issues first (like spark plugs, vacuum leaks, or fuel lines). But if those are fine, and your cleaned carb still won’t perform, it might be beyond saving.

So, When Should You Replace?

Here’s the rule of thumb:

👉 If your Arctic Cat carburetor is dirty, clean it.
👉If it’s damaged or still malfunctioning after cleaning, replace it.

New carb kits aren’t crazy expensive — and replacing a worn-out one can bring your ATV back to life faster than endless troubleshooting.

Conclusion

We hope that the above description was helpful in you knowing what it is that you must do to clean out your carburetor with ease. Ensure that you can pay attention to the assembly and the de-assembly because that can be tricky, especially when it comes to re-assembling your carb. Checking the choke system and the fuel accelerators before you start your bike, will be a good thing to keep in mind.

Don’t worry if you are spending a lot of time doing the re-assembly if this is your first time. The important thing is that after 2-3 times, you’ll get a hang of it and will be able to do it without the full-blown diagram.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How often should I clean the carburetor on my Arctic Cat ATV?

It depends on how often you ride and how long the ATV sits. For regular riders, once a year is usually enough. If your ATV sits for months, especially over winter, consider cleaning the carb before the next ride. Old fuel tends to clog things up.

Can I clean the carburetor without removing it?

You can try a quick spray of carburetor cleaner into the intake, but it won’t do much if the jets are clogged. For a real clean — and to fix running issues — you’ll need to remove and disassemble the carburetor.

What are the symptoms of a dirty ATV carburetor?

Look for hard starting, rough idling, stalling, poor throttle response, or black smoke from the exhaust. These are common signs that your Arctic Cat carburetor needs cleaning.

Can I damage the carburetor while cleaning it?

Yes, if you’re not careful. Common mistakes include stripping screws, damaging jets with wire, or over-tightening parts. Always use the right tools and be gentle with small components.

Is it better to clean or replace a carburetor?

Cleaning is cheaper and often works well. But if the carb is corroded, cracked, or still not working after a full clean, it’s time to replace it. New carb kits for Arctic Cat ATVs are widely available and often under $100.

What size carburetor does my Arctic Cat use?

It depends on the model. For example, the Arctic Cat 500 usually has a 34mm Mikuni carb, but it’s best to check your owner’s manual or the part number on your existing carb.

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